Not All Sunscreens Are Equal, Safe, or Eco-Friendly
Sunscreen is a skincare product that is promoted as essential for protecting our skin. Ultraviolet rays (UVR) have remained the focus on the relationship between sun exposure and skin cancer. This originated from very few studies stating that UVR seems to be associated with squamous cell carcinoma and basal cell carcinoma, and possibly melanoma—three types of skin cancers. The relationship between skin cancer and sun exposure is not straightforward and is also difficult to establish. Please note that this article does not consider the possible protective effects on aging and general skin damage caused by UVR.
Despite the lack of clarity between this causality, the public health’s rationale behind sunscreen usage is that if we can limit or block UVRs, we should reduce the incidence of disease. We can agree that it is probably more prudent to prevent rather than wait for more conclusive studies. Assuming sunscreens prevent cancer, let’s make sure they are safe.
How Is Sunscreen Regulated?
For sunscreen to pass the FDA requirements, the FDA requires only ten valid test results, allowing a maximum of three subjects to be rejected, with seven subjects remaining to conclude an efficacy and SPF value. According to the Agencia Nacional de Vigilancia Sanitaria (ANVISA) guideline, sunscreen should have an SPF of 6 or more, while the FDA requires an SPF of 2. Such low values are questionable since we aim for minimum SPF values of 15 to offer protection.
Sun protection factor (SPF) is the ratio between the UV energy required to produce minimal erythema (redness) on sunscreen protected skin and unprotected skin. UVA protection should be noted on sunscreen; otherwise, SPF describes only protection against UVB. SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB, SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB, and SPF 60 blocks 98% of UVB.
Sunscreen Safety Concerns
Just recently, in 2020, the FDA released their result on sunscreen safety, stating that a preliminary study of six sunscreen ingredients (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate) demonstrated a plasma concentration exceeding the FDA threshold for plasma concentration after one use.
Unfortunately, sunscreen effectiveness is only tested on its ability to prevent erythema of the skin, and many sunscreens fail to achieve their claimed protection. Many sunscreens contain anti-inflammatory agents, such as dioxybenzone, oxybenzone, trolamine salicylate, homosalate, and octisalate, which masks sunburns while providing a false effectiveness effect.
After conducting extensive research regarding individual ingredients included in sunscreens, I found quite concerning data including but not limited to: phototoxic effect, oxidative stress induced by sunscreen ingredients, skin irritation, DNA damage, sunscreen ingredients found in breast milk, etc.
Environmental Impacts of Sunscreen
Controversies evolved since May 2018 when Hawaii passed state legislation regarding a sunscreen ingredient ban (oxybenzone and octinoxate containing products will be banned starting January 1, 2021). Studies described an increasing amount of these ingredients in coastal waters with associated harmful effects on coral reefs, a crucial component of aquatic ecosystems. Twenty-five percent of marine species depend on less than 0.1 percent of the world’s ocean surface—coral reefs. Close to 25% of sunscreen is washed off from the skin within 20 minutes of swimming in the ocean, and it is estimated that between 4,000 and 6,000 tons of sunscreen are released per year, to which the large tourist population contributes.
So, What Should We Use?
Here are the things to look for or avoid when selecting a safe and eco-friendly sunscreen:
Look for biodegradable, coral-friendly ingredients, such as zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, SPF 30+.
Avoid the following ingredients: oxybenzone, octinoxate, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, NANO-particles (non-nano should be mentioned on your sunscreen bottle), and silica.
Other recommendations include:
Avoid sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Cover up with clothes when exposed to the sun (UV protective sunscreens, covering clothes and hats)
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-Dr Stephanie El-Chakieh, Pharmacist & Functional Medicine Practitioner